Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Q&A with J.Crew's Jack {May 2010 Edition}

The "Vol 11: May 2010" edition of "Jack Knows Best" is now available online (click here to check it all out). The following are a few of my favorite questions and responses from the recent posting:
Pants: to cuff or not to cuff?
There are a couple of schools of thought on this one. Some believe that shorter men (or short-legged men) should avoid them, and vice versa, but it's really a matter of personal preference. Some guys shun them because they think they're old-fashioned, but I think they can be quite modern and I also appreciate their functionality—aside from nicely catching the odd piece of loose change, they're actually designed to add weight to a pair of pants in order to give them shape and make them hang nicely. Which brings up another issue: As a design element, cuffs typically work especially well on pleated pants, so there is an argument that flat-front pants should not be cuffed. Not true. Cuffs are an appropriate option on both pleated and flat-front trousers—the only pants that should never be finished with a cuff are tuxedo pants (even if they are pleated). So basically, whether you should go cuff or no cuff is completely up to you. When I do opt for cuffs, however, I usually ask for one that's 1¼", if that helps.

Is it possible to wear madras without looking like you just stepped off the golf course?

Absolutely. Madras is a great staple for spring and summer—it's lightweight and it arguably looks better the minute it gets slightly rumpled. It's also a great way to breathe new life into your chinos and jeans after a long, dark winter (the warm-weather answer to the flannel, it's a colorful way to turn up the volume of your wardrobe—just make sure it's not too loud). The trick is to make sure you give it an urban edge: Look for trimmer, more modern silhouettes (try our tailored shirts or club shorts—both have a slightly more narrow cut) and ground it with neutral solids. It should go without saying, of course, that you ought to wear only one item of madras clothing at a time. If you're not ready to commit to the madras thing whole hog, dip a toe in the waters with a madras tie. The truly cautious, however, can always just stick to the kind of madras that comes in a glass at cocktail hour.

Is there a right way and a wrong way (and time) to roll up shirt sleeves?

Some might argue the only time you should roll up your shirt sleeves is when there's hard work at hand, but I pretty much roll mine up anytime I'm not wearing a jacket—it makes a dress shirt seem a little more casual and slightly nonchalant. There isn't really a trick; I just sort of roll them a few times and simultaneously push them up until they're right at the elbow. Channel your inner Paul Newman and you'll be just fine.
I have mentioned this several times, but I would love to see a similar "advice column" for the Ladies.

As for the roll-up pants advice... I have seen women rolling up their pants this season, and I quite like it! But I haven't seen too much from the men utilizing this style. I wonder if this look will catch on with the guys.

Lastly, when it comes to madras... I agree that one piece of madras is best. Every once in awhile I will see a person wearing a madras jacket paired with madras pants and think it's too much.

What are your thoughts on the Q&A with J.Crew's Jack? Do you disagree or agree with any of his advice? :)

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